Christian Lacroix Spring 1997 Skirt Suit

This black short-sleeve skirt suit from Christian Lacroix’s Spring 1997 collection captures the designer’s exuberant use of colour and form at the height of his creative power. Comprising a fitted short-sleeve jacket and matching mini skirt, the ensemble is enlivened with bold neon pink and green stripes - a playful contrast to the structured black base. As was Lacroix's signature, the jacket is detailed with decadent metal buttons. Engraved to look like reptile skin, they are topped with enamel in various hues that match the fabric. Up close, the fabric is revealed to be a textured, raised cotton brocade with an intricate floral pattern. The skirt is cut to a mini length from black brocade. It fastens at the back with a tonal fabric-covered button and zip. Both pieces are lined with black satin.

The New York Times wrote in its review of the Spring 1997, "Plainly this is a designer with too many ideas floating around in his head. As the show's program notes indicated, the collection drew on the Beaux-Arts Ball, London nights, Art Deco, wild life and Cubist knitwear, among other references." This jacket distils these references into a single, highly graphic statement with its Art Deco-inspired geometry and Cubist fragmentation. The black background and neon palette evoke the visual excess London nightlife. As the New York Times further put it, "Mr. Lacroix takes obvious delight in researching and creating complicated patterns and combining colors in a manner few designers would dare to do."

• Christian Lacroix Spring 1997 • Brocade skirt-suit • Neon pattern • Short-sleeves • Mini-skirt • Faux-reptile skin enamel buttons • Lined in black satin • Made in France

Fabric: 100% Cotton
Size on Label: French size 42, UK 14, US 10
Stretch: No
Care: Dry clean only
Condition: Excellent

Jacket
Waist: 81.5 cm (32 inches)
Hips: 91.5 cm (36 inches)
Bust: 91.5 cm (36 inches)

Skirt
Waist: 68.5 cm (27 inches)
Hips: 101.5 cm (40 inches)
Length: 58.5 cm (23 inches)